The Mammoth Book of Endurance & Adventure, edited by Jon E. Lewis

Jon E. Lewis pulls together exciting stories from across the globe in his The Mammoth Book of Endurance & Adventure. He includes expeditions to the poles, mountains, jungles, caves, the air, deserts, and on water. He includes a range of authors, anywhere from the well-known Ernest Shackleton and Charles Lindbergh to Nikolai Nikhailovich Przhevalski and Norbert Casteret. Like most other anthologies, this book skims the cream off other published material, and can serve as a teaser or a replacement for the full works, depending on your preference. He includes several books on mountaineering, including excerpts from Bonatti, Herzog, and others (notably Lewis and Clark's crossing of the Great Divide).

For Mount Everest, editor Lewis side-steps the usual pick for Hillary and Tenzing's ascent of the mountain, choosing the summit-day excerpt from High Adventure rather than The Ascent of Everest. I find it a good pick, both because its a bit more clearly written than Ascent, and because everyone else uses Hillary's chapter from Ascent in their anthologies. Also, in High Adventure, the writing is a bit more jaunty and dramatic, and Hillary fixes a couple pitfalls from the earlier telling, such as his tugging on the rope, Tenzing's flopping about as a fish at the top of the Hillary Step, and revising down, but justifying his estimate of the height of that climb (though he still doesn't come close to Tenzing's estimation of 15 feet in Tiger of the Snows). I was a bit saddened, however, that Lewis fell into the trap of ending the story on the summit. Even if their descent was uneventful by Everest standards, I do hate leaving climbers way up in the troposphere to sort things out without me on their way home. Perhaps you feel differently. Lewis has actually released a Everest-specific title in this series that I'll get to eventually: The Mammoth Book of Eyewitness Everest. Happy reading!

Himalaya, by Michael Palin

Himalaya, by Michael Palin is a tourist and trekker's take on the Abode of Snow and its environs. Palin travels the length of the Himalaya, from the Khyber Pass on the border of Afghanistan to Indian Nagaland, bordering Burma (Myanmar). His take on the Himalaya is a broad outline, focusing on the people and cities associated with the mountains, as well as taking trips to see many of the important mountains of the world's highest chain, including Mount Everest. He travels generally eastward through the mountains and foothills, and visits many politically sensitive areas, including the Pakistan's tribal areas (in 2003, no less!), Kashmir, and Tibet in addition to the traditional tourist areas. His travels are designed for a television series, and the book is actually based on his travel journal that he writes when not filming.

I found the locations he chose interesting. He picks a lot of locations steeped in mountain history and culture, such as Hunza, Bhutan, Kashmir, and Himachal Pradesh. He also visits many places I would not normally associate with the Himalaya, such as Lahore, Lhasa, and Nagaland, though they certainly have some connection to it and provide some scope to the story. Correspondingly, he gives a pass to several locations that immediately come to mind when I think of the Himalaya, such as Sikkim (Kanchenjunga), the Garhwal Himalaya (Nanda Devi Sanctuary), Mount Kailas, Solu Khumbu, and Darjeeling. I found his representations of the peoples of the Himalaya somewhat limited, as he mainly associates and converses with the famous people of an area or at least those who are well off. Palin's contact with everyday people is somewhat reserved, witnessing them from a distance, and he really only speaks to them (after Pakistan, anyway) when they approach him. I did appreciate, however, his descent of the Brahmaputra to the Bay of Bengal, following the snows on their journey to the sea.

His visit to Mount Everest is somewhat limited. He arrives in November at the traditional northern Base Camp in the Rongbuk Valley. Climbers are conspicuously absent, though he visits the patch of green associated with the 1924 expedition. He remembers his childhood fascination with the story of Mallory and Irvine and reminisces about hearing the news of Tenzing and Hillary's climb to the summit. He also brings up the story of Maurice Wilson. His party spends a day walking towards the mountain, attempting to reach the snout of the Rongbuk Glacier (It's a bit further to walk than in 1924!), but turn back before reaching their goal as evening approaches. On his journey, he visits the bases of several other high mountains, including K2, Annapurna, and Chomolhari. Also, on his Annapurna trek, he is administered by three Sherpas, including Wongchu Sherpa, who had at that time summited Everest twice, and is currently the President of the Everest Summiteers' Association and runs a successful trekking and climbing business.

Overall, the book was pleasant and interesting, though not terribly adventurous. There are a couple tense moments, such as a run in with Maoists in Nepal. I imagine the television series was quite beautiful, as he visits some extraordinarily scenic locations and attends several colorful festivals. This is a nice book for a trekker's preview of the Himalaya, in case you can't decide where you'd like to visit, as it presents a wide variety of locations within the full spectrum of accessibility. Hope you enjoy!

Everest Canada: The Climb for Hope, by Peter Austen

Peter Austen and his crew try to climb Everest via the North Col-Northeast Ridge to raise awareness for Rett Syndrome in his Everest Canada: The Climb for Hope. The witty author of Rocky Horrors, Frozen Smiles gets serious about a little-understood disease that is the likely cause of most mental retardation in girls. After securing a permit for a post-monsoon climb in 1991, Austen partners with Canada Rett Syndrome Association to get more publicity and financial support for both of their causes. Austen and his fellow climbers are new to the big-expedition game, and they whip themselves into a functional crew, both in their training climbs and their detailed preparations. Even with dual-role fundraising, the expedition has a very difficult time finding money, bringing on an intricate web of conditional sponsorship almost at the last minute. Theirs is the first Everest climb for charity, and they take every opportunity to broadcast their cause.

Their climb goes fairly well up until the end, though the end seemed to me to come quickly. Though they are delayed a week by rock slides over the Friendship Highway, they get off to a good start yakking supplies to ABC and ferrying loads up to the North Col. There are occasional weather delays and some illness in their climbing crew of 17 (including 5 Sherpa), but they overall keep good momentum. They are distracted once by a climber high on the mountain who tears ligaments in his leg, needing a rescue. Getting him down the North Col is also a bit of an ordeal. Though all climbers make it as high as the North Col, relatively few make progress above it, and three are left to a last-ditch effort before their yak crews arrive to evacuate ABC on October 6. High winds lift them off the ground on occasion during their ascent, and they arrive at their 26,000 foot camp only to find that it has been blown away. The crew evacuates the mountain without anyone dying or any lasting injuries. Their high-altitude rescue operation also landed them some much-needed publicity both for their climb and their cause.

This is overall an enjoyable quick read. There are plenty of interesting bits and adventure, and Austen's sense of humor carries the parts, such as looking for food sponsors, that normally get tedious in climbing books. Austen professes to be a student of Everest history, but take his historical musings with a grain of salt, because much of what he writes is half-true. I was excited to find that three other Everest authors played a role in the expedition: Pat Morrow (Beyond Everest) was on the film crew, and Jaimie Clarke (From Everest to Arabia) and Alan Hobson (From Everest to Enlightenment) helped with the satellite communications and climbed.

Letters & Diaries of A. F. R. Wollaston, edited by Mary Wollaston

I learned about the life of adventure of "Sandy" Wollaston, member of the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance, in the Letters and Diaries of A. F. R. Wollaston, edited by his wife Mary Wollaston. This collection covers Wollaston's travels that he did not later turn into books, so his East African and 1st New Guinea expedition diaries are absent, however. He writes in a direct style, and his diaries are both frank and entertaining (after his early diaries, which are little more than avian laundry lists). He writes overall few letters for such a world traveler, and he admits that he does not enjoy maintaining contact through letters. The ones that make it into this collection show him to be a bit socially awkward (at least in letters), and he usually only writes when he gets sentimental for home.

His travels are varied and exciting. After a jaunt through Lapland along with a friend following college, Wollaston decides to take up a medical career to facilitate his being invited on exploratory expeditions. Though he ends up hating his career, he spends surprisingly little time at it after graduation from his medical training, traveling the world instead, as planned. Early in his travels, he ends up on a scientific mission for the British Museum to the Ruwenzori mountains, and manages to bag a couple peaks, though he runs into funding difficulties in his attempt upon the highest peak. While he waits, the Duke of the Abruzzi beats him to the prize; Wollaston plays a good sport and gives the Duke all the information he had gathered in his reconnaissance of the mountain. His next two expeditions are to New Guinea in an attempt to reconnoiter and scale the Snow Mountains. The first expedition is a wash after his crew ascends the wrong river to approach the mountains. His second, however, gets him quite close to the summit of Carstensz Pyramid; with an experienced climbing partner, he likely would have made it. He considers this second trip a failure as well, but it seems to have left a lasting and happy impression upon him. The First World War interrupts his attempt to return to New Guinea, and he joins the Naval Medical Service. For the first part of the war, they ship him around the North Atlantic, but later a friend recommends him for service in East Africa. He ends up serving on land with the army, earning the Distinguished Service Cross, and spending a great deal of time at the base of Kilimanjaro, before returning to the Navy. He is offered a fellowship at Cambridge after his service, and soon after beginning his tenure, he heads to Darjeeling for the Everest Reconnaissance.

His diaries give some interesting information about the Reconnaissance expedition. On an expedition that had such medical trouble, it was interesting to read the medical officer's perspective. He was worried about Kellas until the day he died, at which point Kellas began looking and feeling better. Kellas was carried on a litter across Tibet mainly because there was nowhere appropriate to convalesce until the expedition reached Kampa Dzong; Kellas didn't quite make it. After Kellas' death, Wollaston insists that Raeburn turn around immediately, as he has been exhibiting similar symptoms. Through Wollaston's diaries, we get to read about their travel to Sikkim, Raeburn's stay at the Finnish mission, and Wollaston's catching up to the expedition, all of which gets only spartan coverage in the official expedition account (Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance 1921). Additionally, Wollaston writes about his specimen collecting, even in areas where it was officially forbidden, for his role as expedition naturalist. He appears quite uninterested in climbing Everest, based on his writing, and he adds that he does not want to return for the next expedition, although he found much of Tibet to be a beautiful country. After the Everest trip, there is a final account of his trip, along with his wife, to the Sierra Nevada mountains of Columbia, in which he does more exploration than climbing.

The Boy Who Conquered Everest, by Blanc & Romero

The Boy Who Conquered Everest tells the story of Jordan Romero's climb of most of the seven summits, including Mount Everest in 2010 at the age of 13, in a book by Katherine Blanc and Romero. It's aimed at young audiences, with a lot of graphics, basic prose, and a few spreads dedicated to his preparation and each of his climbs up to Everest and a longer section dedicated to the big one. The book is styled after a travel scrapbook, with snapshot-style photos and some catchy formatting. Most of the prose comes from his blog, though there are a couple sections written as background or explanation around his climbs and some basic facts about each of the mountains he climbs. He ends up ascending Kilimanjaro, Kosciusko, Elbrus, McKinley, Carstensz Pyramid, and then Everest. As of today, there is still no news of Vinson on his website. I'm a little curious what's keeping him away.

Jordan Romero climbed Everest in the pre-monsoon season of 2010 from the north side via the North Col and Northeast Ridge. His ascent makes him both the youngest to climb Everest and part of the first family to climb it together. He is the climber that ousted Arjun Vajpai from the youngest non-Sherpa climber record only hours after Vajpai's ascent (read about it in his On Top of the World), and Ming Kipa Sherpa from the overall title. I wish I could tell you what was different about climbing Everest as a teenager based on this book, but the information in it is pretty basic. His parents were keeping a very close eye on his health, and I also noticed that he climbed direct from Camp III with only a food, liquid, and oxygen refill at IV rather than spending the night at that very high altitude. I assume both of these were due at least partly to his age. Overall, this is a decent book. The only thing that really bugged me was the title (with the "conquered" thing). Though there was very little said about the mountain or its history in this book, I found it refreshing to read a kids' book about Everest without scores of factual errors in it! 

Orient Express to Crystal Summit, by Shin Seung Mo

I try to find especially rare and interesting books to share when I reach a reading milestone, and Shin Seung Mo's Orient Express to Crystal Summit certainly fits the ticket. For my 200th Everest book, I bring you the story of the 1987 Korean Winter Everest Expedition, the fourth expedition to make it to the summit in winter, and the only successful expedition to release a book in English about their climb. I've previously read Joe Tasker's Everest: The Cruel Way, about his 1981 Everest winter expedition that attempted the West Ridge; it's a great book, but the group ultimately turn back well below the summit. Shin's Korean expedition took good notes on the two previous successful Japanese winter expeditions, and they go fast and hard early in the winter season, heading up the Icefall Dec. 1 and packing up at Base Camp on Christmas Eve after their successful summit, an all-seasons record at that time. Theirs is a small expedition, with four members eventually climbing (two of their six never effectively acclimatize) and four high-altitude porters, including their sirdar, Ang Rita. The summit party, Huh Young Ho and Ang Rita spend four days continuously at the South Col and above, (Ang Rita without supplemental oxygen) and only make it to the top on their third attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge, making it once as high as the South Summit before turning back. The summit pair even makes a forced bivouac near the Balcony on the Southeast Ridge without incident or mortification. If this group was composed of western climbers, the expedition would undoubtedly be a major story in the annals of Everest; as it is, with all my reading I had not even heard of this group or this book until I saw the book for sale at a mountaineering bookstore.

I was amazed at what this intrepid, but small party was able to accomplish on a bare-bones budget. They had major difficulties finding sponsorship money for the trip because three previous Korean winters expeditions to Mount Everest had failed. They eventually find a single sponsor who sees an opportunity to market his outdoor gear to foreign markets with their trip, and they head to the mountain with a lot of his stuff, some essential items (like boots!) purchased along the way, and fervent prayers that they'll recoup their debts. On the mountain, they become expert scroungers, finding useful items like food, tents, and oxygen left by previous teams for their climb. Other than the two bottles Huh uses on the first attempt, all of their supplemental oxygen is found on the mountain, connected through an adapter found on the South Col. I was impressed that in their speedy ascent they even managed to string a large portion of the route (especially the Lhotse Face) to safeguard their passage on the very hard ice. Because of the cold, they found very little danger from either avalanche or a shifting Icefall, but they had to be very diligent about keeping their digits warm (or perhaps just unfrozen). They chose to use tents rather than ice caves, and though they regretted it, both for the cold and the wind, it saved them time in their race against the worst of the winter weather.

I initially found it very hard not to judge these guys based both on cultural biases and the very poor English language skills in the book. They acknowledge that many people along their trek to the mountain thought that they were suicidal fools who had no idea what they were doing. I'll have to admit that when I first started reading this book, I had similar feelings. As I got into the meat of the story, however, I realized that this was not a summit-at-all-costs group or even a particularly under-experienced one. They are very careful about taking care of themselves, watching their diet and water intake and turning back when they realize they've reached a reasonable limit. Though it was an extremely trying ordeal to climb in both the frigid weather and the high winds, they bring warm enough clothing and sleeping bags to deal with what nature throws at them (though they were never warm). No one got frostbite, those that got sick turned around, and those who did not acclimatize stayed low. The major detractor to this book is the language, however. At times it seems like it was translated word-for-word from the Korean, and many words are either mis-spelled or switched with similar sounding words. An example from the text: "Along with completion of preparation of oxygen cylinders, the Goddess mother of the earth was smiling to them. Last bonfire to the summit of the Everest climax of the expedition integrated both of pray and aspiration which will transcending time and space on each steps of summit pair." At first the language really grated on me, but as I got into the storyline of the book, I really only started noticing things when they said something especially well, rather than poorly. In the end, it came off to me as a fireplace telling of a fantastic story by someone who struggles in the language they are using for the audience's benefit. If you can find a copy of this book, I really hope you enjoy it. After I purchased this copy several months ago, I have not yet seen another one available...anywhere!

Soldiers on Everest, by Fleming & Faux

Jon Fleming and Ronald Faux tell the story of the joint 1976 Army Mountaineering Association Royal Nepalese Army Mount Everest Expedition in their Soldiers on Everest. The expedition climbs Everest in the pre-monsoon season via the Southeast Ridge, putting Brummie Stokes and Bronco Lane on the summit. It's a bit strange having summiteers, who for their careers' sake, try to avoid the camera, as they are both members of the Special Air Service, and in the book, there are only partial glimpses of their faces. Jon Fleming, the once-leader-now-deputy (must be a British Everest thing...) provides a broad perspective of the preparations and gives his perspective on the Everest climb. Ronald Faux, a climber and Scottish journalist, relates the overall story of the ascent.

The organizers manage to pull off the expedition as "adventure training," a program begun after Britain closed many of its overseas bases as one way to keep people interested in serving. As such, climbers actually received their regular military salaries during the climb, though they were expected to contribute considerably to the expedition costs. The partnering with the Nepalese Army worked well logistically, though the Nepalese climbers nearly unanimously ran into trouble on the mountain, including one climber who needed an emergency operation at 23,000 feet. Like Bonington's 1975 Southwest Face expedition, the army hired both high altitude porters and separate Icefall porters, though the service members also contributed considerably to the load carrying.

The expedition had plenty of casualties, including the Nepalese climber mentioned above. Terry Thompson met an unfortunate end after stepping out of his tent and into a crevasse. Also, four climbers were swept to their death in their 1975 training climb of Nuptse. One member had a gas cartridge explode in his hands, though he recovered well enough to reach the South Col. There was plenty of illness going around, especially dysentery and hernias, and the summit pair suffered from severe frostbite after a forced bivouac just below the South Summit.

This is an exciting adventure, though the telling is somewhat reserved. It is, however, an official government publication---the only Everest book I've seen so far with an Appendix K! For detail people, however, there's a treasure trove of information in the appendices about preparing for and executing an Everest climb. There are chapters on everything from equipment and rations to ornithology and finance. (They finished the expedition in the black, by the way.) One thing caught my attention---Faux says that the summit pair did not see the Chinese survey tripod at the summit. It was certainly there a few months later for the post-monsoon American expedition, as well as subsequent expeditions in following years (such as Reinhold Messner's 1980 solo ascent in The Crystal Horizon). I hope he got this detail wrong---I would hate to think of the alternative! You can read about this expedition from Brummie Stokes' perspective in his Soldiers and Sherpas.

Mountain Conquest, by Eric Shipton

Eric Shipton writes a young adult's history of mountaineering in his Mountain Conquest. It's a selected history, focusing on mountains Shipton decided were the most important to this history of the sport, namely Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Denali, Nanda Devi, Everest, and select other 8000-meter peaks. The book has many photographic illustrations, and the text is well-written and entertaining. Shipton provides a mountaineer's perspective, and his viewpoint comes in handy with problems such as the ascent of the Matterhorn---he provides a photograph and diagram from the east showing both routes attempted in profile that makes a lot more sense than the usual dramatic view of the mountain taken from the direction of Zermatt. Additionally, he speaks from experience in both the Nanda Devi and Everest stories.

I found it interesting to read about Everest from Shipton's perspective, since he visited the mountain in 1933, 1935, 1936, 1938, 1951, and almost led the 1953 expedition. Though not as forceful as Smythe in British Mountaineers, Shipton does have an ax to grind, and he's not quite as careful here as in his Men Against Everest, written quite soon after the 1953 ascent. He reminds readers that the 1933 party did not use supplemental oxygen on principle, that Norton and Somervell climbed to 28,000 feet without in 1924, that Compagnoni and Lacedelli ran out before they made it to the top of K2, and that several peaks including Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak were first climbed without. He also mentions that he was very fortunate to have a small party during his approach to Nanda Devi, and that Tillman's group that climbed the peak was relatively small. He doesn't go to the point of berating large parties or the use of oxygen, but he's certainly aiming to plant seeds in the brains of young climbers. The book covers the history of Everest in a chapter, up to and including the 1965 Indian ascent, and does a pretty good job, if you don't mind his stance.

This is overall a good introduction to mountaineering. It doesn't provide a comprehensive history, but the highlights Shipton chooses make for an interesting story, with plenty of adventure. I especially appreciated the wacky history of Mount McKinley, since its attempts and ascent are significant and entertaining, but often left out of brief histories by European writers. I have not yet found a recent young readers' history of mountaineering that I really like, so I'm not sure what to recommend for the continuation of the story. Shipton's is great. Anybody got a recommendation for a modern one?

Lure of Everest, by Brig. Gyan Singh

Lure of Everest, by Brig. Gyan Singh, is the story of the first Indian Everest Expedition. The Indians made their first attempt in 1960. In under a year, they not only prepared for the climbing and logistics of the expedition but designed, tested, and manufactured their own equipment. This is as much as story of an Everest climb as it is the tale of Indian mountaineering coming into its own---the team not only pulled off this logistical miracle, but put three fit climbers in an assault camp high on the Southeast Ridge with a second team ready at the South Col. The climbers can hardly be blamed for the unrelenting weather, with either an exceedingly early and short calm spell or perhaps none at all and high winds and/or snow for the duration of their time spent high on the mountain. The Indians were initially unlucky with Everest, with a similar rebuff in 1962, though they put nine climbers on top of Everest in 1965.

I found the most interesting part of this book the expedition planning and logistics. Tenzing Norgay served as a senior adviser to the expedition, and the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute ran pre-Everest courses for the training and selection of team members. With all that needed to be done before the expedition, Singh delegated much of the preparation work. He received enthusiastic help from both team members and several climbers that had not been chosen. Also, Tenzing contracted the Sherpanis of Darjeeling to knit all of the woolen items the team would need. It seems like many of the equipment manufacturers took it as a matter of pride to create first-rate equipment for this trip. It's a testament to Singh's leadership and the climbers' competence that everything worked out smoothly. There was a slight tragedy, however, when the truck carrying most of their food overturned on its way to the train station, destroying much of its contents. The Indians one-upped the Swiss's use of dynamite in the Khumbu Icefall with the use of plastic explosives to safeguard the route. Also interesting was their stringing of a telephone line from the top of the Icefall to Advanced Base Camp. (Actually the second phone line on Everest---the 1933 British party had a line up the North Col that didn't quite reach Camp IV. Unlucky volunteers were sent out into the cold to answer it!) The party also made good use of wireless radios, and they would often hear of their progress on All-India Radio within days. 

The buildup and climb was fairly typical, with good weather, and a few variations from previous attempts. Most notably, Singh chose summit teams of three rather than two, with Col. Kumar, Nawang Gombu, and Sonam Gyatso spending the night on the Southeast Shoulder and reaching 28,300 feet before turning back in appalling weather. Also different than earlier Nepal-based expeditions was Singh's leadership from the middle or back of the expedition, largely due to illness, though there is little apparent conflict from this, as is often the case. He gives Sonam Gyatso a small brass icon of Shiva to place on the summit, that unfortunately was unable to keep the Chinese expedition's bust of Chairman Mao company. The reported weather by the Indian summit party corroborates the experiences of the Chinese on the North Side. The Chinese climbers had the luck to ascend the mountain during the relatively calm night and early morning hours of May 25 before the storm arrived that turned the Indian summit party back.

K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain, by Viesturs & Roberts

You may think I have the wrong mountain with K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain, but I guessed correctly that Ed Viesturs avoids talking about Everest about as much as he avoids climbing it! The book is principally a history and commentary on the expeditions to K2, but Viesturs draws many parallels to events on Mount Everest, including his own expeditions, and even talks about his 2009 climb of the Southeast Ridge (his seventh ascent) in the Epilogue. Viesturs focuses his writing on the most significant climbs on K2, namely the 1938, 1939, and 1953 American expeditions, the 1954 Italian ascent, the 1986 free-for-all, and the 2008 disaster. He discuses events from his own experienced viewpoint, and the book is considerably more level-headed than most K2 writers. Though Viesturs relies heavily on previously printed accounts, he includes some new material (such as Dee Molenaar's climbing diary), and he often reads between the lines to get to the facts and holds writers accountable when they are being biased or unfair.

Though I haven't read nearly as many books about K2 as Everest (196 and counting!), this has been my favorite so far. I'm a big fan of "Steady Ed," because he's more interested in climbing than politics, and he'd sooner lend a hand than put someone down. I trust his judgment of other climbers in this book, because time and again, he has put his "getting down in mandatory" mantra into practice, and yet he has had the skills and patience to climb all 14 8000ers (see No Shortcuts to the Top). I personally found the information on the 1939 and 1954 expeditions the most interesting, because these were the expeditions I knew the least about. I was amazed that Fritz Wiessner had made it so high on K2, even avoiding the faster and easier but more dangerous Bottleneck Couloir, and yet had turned around for the well-being of his rope-mate. I also found Viestur's analysis of Wiessner's character enlightening, and I appreciated his well-researched rebuttal of popular opinion. I admittedly knew very little about the 1954 ascent of K2 coming in to this book, and I appreciate the authors' research into finding out what happened rather than what was written about what happened. The 1954 expedition is frightening for many reasons, and Viesturs paints Compagnoni as perhaps the greatest villain to bag a first ascent on an 8000er. One small thing that I noticed: Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski did not buy onto Herrligkoffer's permit in 1986 (as purported by this book), but were invited as expedition climbers, according to Kukuczka's My Vertical World.

Viesturs draws many parallels between the climbs on K2 and Everest, both because Everest's history is more well-known, and (I believe) because it is a more important part of Viesturs' life. He contrasts the 1986 K2 season with the 1996 Everest season, he compares Walter Bonatti's frightening K2 bivouac with that of the 1963 American expedition to Everest, and he compares Charles Houston's mania with K2 to Mallory's attraction to Everest (to name a few). Regarding his own climbs, Viesturs discusses how his difficult relationships with his teammates on K2 led to his solo attempt on the North Face of Everest in 1993, writes about his role in the 1996 tragedy, and relates his return to Everest in 2009 to climb the Southeast Ridge (this time with supplemental oxygen).

Overall, this is a fun book, especially if you're looking for an introduction to K2 history, or you'd just like to read Viesturs' take on it. On a side note, does anyone else find it funny that Viesturs was born in Fort Wayne, Indiana, AKA"Summit City"?